Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 2 (Odyssey)

Thanks for joining us again on our next installment. When we last left you, we were enjoying our rest day. Although - don't you find that the first enforced rest day is the hardest one to take? You've only done two days of climbing and you know you should rest, but...ohhh, you're so excited and just want to do one more day...

Anyway, we played it smart and it was lucky, because coach Cujes (me) had some brutality in store at one of the premiere cliffs on the island, the varied Odyssey.

It started cold and we were snug in our down jackets, and then fingertips were frozen on the limestone of the warmups. Circe 6b, Femio 6a+ and Laertes 5c+ were all dispatched by the crew.

"What was that one like Glenn?" 

"Dunno - couldn't feel a thing!"

Next it was time for a crag tour to find the line which inspired. With about 50-60 classics of all grades to choose from, it wasn't hard. For Matt, the steep and thuggy Lucky Luca 7b beckoned. For Owen, it was the gently overhung, polished and pumpy Amorpha 7b. Glenn and Susy were seduced by the long and technical Dafni 7b. And me, well, I had an old project from the 2008 camp Marci Marc 7c+ - that super enduro mega line. One of the most coveted routes on Kalymnos.

Owen only had a couple of hangs on his first shot on Amorpha 7b (remember, this is the guy who is supposed to be climbing 6a/18 because of his wrist). Solid, solid effort up front. We spent a good while sussing the top crux and getting the sequence just right. On his second shot, he went right through cleanly to the rest 4m from the top, and even though he rested well, the forearms were out of juice for the deadpoint to the two finger pocket - one move shy of the top. Tragedy! Seriously though, don't you love a route that takes you right to the edge? What a perfect proj - he'll be back for it later in the camp.

Owen and his Amporpha 7b © S Cujes 2010

While Lucky Luca 7b may have "looked onsightable", it wasn't to be for Matt who discovered the start is mega bouldery on steep tufa snake pinches. Not surprising, he found some sweet kneebars and kneescums and came away with a smooth second shot send. Tidy work from the Coolum Kid.

Matt putting Lucky Luca 7b to bed © L Cujes 2010

Dafni 7b is a long and imposing, wandering line up a pure white sheet of limestone. Given Glenn's hardest route is 7a/23, the fact he got on this with no beta, placing the draws and working it out as he went was a bloody top effort. Susy then helped refine beta and they both had shots on it together. This is an ace way of figuring out a hard route, particularly if you both have different styles, as sometimes one person is better at unlocking the sequence and the other person benefits from that. Super fun. No sends, but good learnings and great progress. A potential goer for later in the trip.

Glenn on Dafni 7b  © L Cujes 2010

So that leaves me on Marci Marc 7c+. The route is a full 30m long and overhangs about 10m or so. In 2008, I tried it several times, always avoiding the potential kneebar at half height. You have to climb out to it, put it in, and then climb back onto the line and I always thought it probably didn't allow much of a rest anyway. It certainly didn't feel good when I tried it. But here we are in 2010 and I'm in possession of our newly developed Upskill Friction kneebar pads, I thought it'd be wrong not to suit up and get into them. So I tried the kneebar and yep - pretty dang good with these pads! Second shot I climbed solidly from the ground, through to the kneebar, recovered, and then blitzed the crux. What a relief! 10m victory whipper from the top (thanks Susy's rope and Matt's soft catch) and I'm down.

Me chilling in the kneebar on Marci Marc 7c+ © S Cujes 2010

After the big efforts on our projects, we hit the slabs for some no pressure fun. Sheree once again upped her tally of leading on routes such as Eumeo 4b, Argo 4c and Telemaco 5b, and we all played around on these fun slabs with cool features (big stones sticking out of the more weathered limestone).

Slab fun!! © L Cujes 2010

Join us next time as we steepen things up at the dripping tufa wall of Ghost Kitchen!

Great Places to Go Climbing Group

Climbing has much to offer. achieve a sense of fulfillment and joy at the top are difficult to beat. Today, many social groups in the 'packages' are looking for pure joy of rock climbing and team building experiences. Climbing can help build teamwork and friendships.
There are a number of sites in the UK for internal and external groups in the form of climbing. You can view the days activities, normally should be fully recognized trainers offer beginners the chance to learn to navigate safely through a rock. These days are good for your corporate team building, although the costs 50-120 pounds a person can. Here are some sites that you want to attract in your group could get said.
Indoor climbing If you are just a little bit of climbing with a limited effort will be indoor climbing is a good opportunity to pick up. Lakeland is an indoor climbing course, that the private sessions for groups and offering families. Located in Kendal in the Lake District this property offers beginners courses and individual sessions to build skills.

Peak District Climbing in the Peak District began with the pioneers in 1890 and has been expanded so that every weekend, thousands of climbers on the rock. The peak has a wide range of large and small rocks, and with over 10,000 registered increases - probably do not know exactly how much - and the proximity of some major urban areas means that it is a very popular place to climb.
The peak offers a wealth of climbing for all. Valkyrie - Froggatt Edge, north of Cima is a good place tiles and rocks Chew Valley may offer strenuous tiles instead of hard routes.

Wales Wales has a land far more interesting than the mostly flat UK. There are many places to go to centers. Hot spots are Snowdonia and North Pembroke.
Dinas Mot one of the best rock Llanberis (Snowdonia). On the south side, but rarely reaches the sun and is better for a hot summer day of sunshine waiting. There are different types of climbing with spurs, and the roads are long and multi-pitch. The hilly area is 300-500 meters high, with over 100 routes of all levels.
The most popular and best reef in North Pembroke, Carreg-y-Barcud. The rock here is compact sandstone slabs of large sizes in uniform, thin edges and small tears. General face of Carreg-y-Barcud is the largest flat area and a wide choice of routes from E1 upwards.
Other factors When one day climbing to organize a group, you must take into account other factors. Transportation to and from the center, accommodation for a stay of more than a day and food products. If the group is large enough, it might be easier for a mini-bus or coach hire. You must, however, given the size of the vehicle and check their sites you have in mind access to contribute. In basic terms that are the center of climbing on the housing site, or want to find a nearby hotel.

Climbing Techniques - Come Forward for Success

In mountaineering, as in every other area of human activity, you will only reach its full potential if they embrace the concept of failure. Sounds paradoxical, I know, but too many climbers in their comfort zone where you can not stay ... and not much better.
The climb was the old adage: "The leader never falls". And with terrible climbing protection, said that in a good way. Even today, in certain situations, you can still make good sense. There are X-rated rooms in the United States and exposed climb, where a fall would be fatal. No way to succeed in this little beauty, for sure!
But most of the climbing is on a large scale from 0 (most secure is not always) to 10 (terminal). If the limits of your study or your experience of climbing slide, then you can look at locations close to 0 on the serious scale. That is, if you deliberately try to do more serious way, in this case I recommend to be cautious - in fact, very careful.
But suppose you onsighted F6as 20 (5.10B) with success - is not on them. It is clear that the consolidated position (if your current experience). To state the obvious difficult, more difficult routes that you have to go climbing. But it is your choice whether you stay in your comfort zone or stop. Either way is fine as long as you want.
If your comfort zone, then three months later, he had climbed another 15 F6as, bringing the total number to 35 Or maybe you have to be done for five more - all successful - and I tried 10 different routes, which are much more. If you've done this, would your scorecard as follows: 25 F6A success. Four successful F6A + and a failure. F6bs three successful and two defeats. Now you can build a pyramid and press continue to use. Sure there are a few mistakes, but as long as the routes were relatively safe to fall, who cares? (Note: All routes are potentially dangerous. Make sure a competent court must warn you all the time. If you want a helmet, a bear.)
Can you see what's going on? Instead of not avoid like the plague, you accept it as a learning tool. As long as your "average" go up then it is relatively safe, which cares about the occasional failure?
Top climbers are not afraid of the (safe) failure. They know that the profit to remain at 100% of the time, in your comfort zone. The trick is not 'Next' to success. By the way, this tactic also works well in life! Make sure you can not, where the penalties are relatively mild. But the fear of failure (not the error itself) is the biggest thing stopping most people realize their full potential. There is an old movie called climbing, "Break on Through" and that is what we should all do. Break on Through to the other - not only in climbing but in life!
Michael (Mick) Ward has climbed since 1967. 56 years, is still around 5.12 or F7B +. He made many first ascents and mountaineering written for many magazines. He has to improve.

Climbing 101

Climbing is often misunderstood or thought of those not in the loop. E ', considered the domain of dependence on adrenaline and macho tough guys. While the escalation of the use of force certainly echoed by almost everyone who wants to learn and spend their time on sports. Even if you live in an area with no big climbs, you can always learn to climb, just a little 'creative.
Start-up
More information about this sport is the first step to control the escalation, you can read sports magazines. This will be the type of equipment required and conditions that may occur to learn to climb.
Visit the forum dedicated to the sport will also help you learn from others, in collaboration with the sport. Do not be afraid to ask questions is a great way to find out how others got their start in this sport. You can also find climbers in your area who can get the resources that are valuable for a beginner to learn.
Climbing wall
A big problem for many people is a logistical effort to learn to climb. Your home may be far from a decent rock climbing. While many diehard fans of the sport will tell you that the best way to learn is natural rock, there's nothing wrong with starting in a gymnasium.
indoor sports facilities are rapidly gaining popularity and chances are you can find a location near you. If you win a knowledge and experience in a gym, you can climb through the natural rock climbing routes. You can be sure that once you have bitten by the bug of rock climbing, you are ready to travel for a good climb.
Dress for Success
It 'also important climbing clothing and gear necessary for safety and comfort when climbing. Wear the right clothes and rock climbing safety equipment is much better and climb on top of that, safety equipment save your life.
Not
There are many difficulty levels as you choose what you want to drive, the more you are involved in the sport you probably want to branch and trying different types of climbing. To begin, however, climbing and bouldering are an excellent introduction to the sport.
Free climbing, a kind of escalation that does not use equipment, is probably the best attempt right after you have more experience. However, if you've been climbing for some time, try climbing trad. This type of climbing using climbing equipment to help your progress.

Climbing Donner Pass history

Thunder and incredibly historic rock Pass is located about 90 miles north of Sacramento, Calif., just west of Thunder Lake and Truckee, California. Yes, the famous Donner Pass, the party were killed in the early days of the Old West.
Apart from the modern history of the famous in this area with spectacular granite dome as walls, cliffs, overhangs with thin and launch ramps multi-recording has it all! What is most impressive about this area is a popular sport and traditional climbing in harmony with one another. Not succumb to the destruction of over bumps, scratches, or garbage along the trails. The beginner can top rope climber, a leader can clip bolts or change the position of soloist and has ample places in Boulder.
Once you reach the top, you start to see some of the reefs to see. The first wall you come to the "Stealth and Black Wall" on your right. Later the road was the "off road" and "Peanut Gallery" Space Agency "Wall" on the hill above. Finally get to the meat of the summit and see the Snow Shed Wall "on the left. Below the bridge is clear that the" Green Phantom walls and Sun. Beyond the Bridge School "Rock", "Baboon Rock ", then" Or Curls "
Believe it or not, that's not all! If you park at school, "Rock" and walk on the path, is the "Star Walls (who love the hardest of all the ribs), after the walls to reach the star 19 and 20" Grouse Flat "and the amazing rock, overlooking the lake.
Descent: The walls are not the article. It's just a matter of finding the path of least resistance and beyond.
When all is said and done for the day climbing activities, you can go on the north shore of Donner Lake, and enjoy one of several pillars for public use. Enjoy the clear blue waters of the lake.

Tehipite trip (contd)

The Kings Canyon drains to the west and the valley has about 3000-4000ft of elevation change. The native americans used to winter at the bottom due to the warmer temperatures and good fishing.

From camp we had to hike to the wall and this is just a piece of the 1300ft top half of the wall. As far as I know, no one has climbed the dihedral in this photo.

Mike and Ari setting up our line to hang the food. We had two haul bags of food for our ten days of camping. One was filled with meals and the other with breakfast and snacks. We saw bear tracks and scat while on the trip but no bears and pretty much nothing but birds. The area was burned by fire two years ago and there is very little food for anything to eat. Plus the fire must have killed many of the animals. At the beginning of the trip it took all three of us to hang the food (because it was so heavy) and by the last day or two it could be done by just one.

Our first recon on the first day to get to the wall. You can see the upper part of the dome (Tehipite Dome) that is over 1000ft of rock you are looking at. Plus notice the burn damage and the grasses coming back into the environment very slowly. We needed to use surveying tape (bright orange) to mark our path from camp to the wall because it took over an hour to get there hiking in the mornings and at night. It was too easy to get lost (as we did once) with out marking the trail. In the end, we removed all the tape and found the path of least resistance. The hike wasn't too bad, it was the mosquitoes that were no fun and the 1000ft gulley that we had to descend and hike out everyday.

Me at the last major river crossing. I chose to wear that long sleeved hoody on the horse because the bugs were so bad on the ride in and out of the base camp.
Have a great day!

piz : )

More Ten Sleep Climbing pics

This is turning into a photo blog. Oh well. You love it.

More pics from Ten Sleep for you. It's great having three people finally as we can spend time taking a few shots.

Gareth onsighting Number One Enemy 5.11a, a fingerlocky thing at Slavery Wall. Definitely one of the best sectors here. © L Cujes 2010

Me gathering beta. Sneaky! © S Cujes 2010

Another pic for the Molly Beard Appreciation Society © L Cujes 2010

Me onsighting a nice 5.11b, I Just Do Eyes. Techy long face. © G Llewellin 2010

Gareth on one of the best routes at Ten Sleep: Happiness Is Slavery 5.12b (or 7b or 25 :) © S Cujes 2010

Big G taking flight as the pump goes terminal 5m from the top © S Cujes 2010

Applying anti-pump techniques. Do you know this trick? © S Cujes 2010

Me on the start of the classic E.K.V 5.12c (7b+/26) which I flashed thanks to Molly & Carl's beta © S Cujes 2010

Me sending the classic long route Burden of Immortality 5.13a (7c+/28) © G Llewellin 2010

Well that's it for Ten Sleep. A nice couple of weeks was had by all.

Tehipite Dome Part 1

Mike B on his horse at the biggest creek crossing of the trip. Little did we know that our camp was just a few miles away. At this point of the ride, all of our butts were getting a bit sore and we were definitely ready to finish the ride. It was nice though to have a few minutes of walking around and stretching the legs by the crystal clear river.

Ari, taking it easy in the woods of tall trees and ferns on the forest floor. The outfitter (Clyde Pack Outfitter), put the littlest guy on our trip on the biggest horse. It was funny watching Ari trying to get on and off the horse during the ride in and ride out of Tehipite Dome. He wore is only blue jeans and a hand me down western shirt and a fisherman's hat the whole time!

This here is Allen Clyde and he knows these trails and his horses really well. He has been a horse packer in these mountains for over 30 years, he is a doctor of the feet, has a ranch near Fresno and is the man that you want to take you into the wilderness for any of your needs!

When we got to camp the evening before the ride into Tehipite Dome we had to explode the truck to repack all the gear in the horse pack bags. So we had to make sure that we had everything, ropes, harnesses, shoes, cams, nuts, toilet paper, stoves and cook sets, food, tents, backpacks, the whole works. It took over three hours to figure everything out and get the 6 pack bags equally loaded and all strapped down. As we did this the Pack station dogs joined us and sniffed our gear and we had a nice campfire going to keep away the bugs. It is always tough to pack the final amount of gear for a trip like this because you never really know what you need and it is always too late when you find out! We quickly realized that we forgot the bug spray!

Mike B and Ari just outside the Fresno airport where they picked me up. I was flying in from Canada and the Squamish Mountain Festival and they drove in from Colorado and Utah in my truck. Ari was wearing my warm weather gear to keep the 100 degree heat at bay while we walked to the truck. Notice the wind block hat and the woolen Arcteryx neck gaiter. I don't think that there is an outfit that Ari doesn't look good in.

piz : )

Climbing in Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming

Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming. The new IN spot in the US. Interesting though, because the climbing is kinda old school! Techy vertical walls abound. More rock than most could climb in a lifetime. Pockets EVERYWHERE! About 700 routes and growing. Summer only destination pretty much. Free camping. Come check it out.

Best guidebook cover - EVER :)

Crazy weather

Quality bridge access to French Cattle Ranch sector © G Llewellin 2010

 

Sam onsighting Eurotrash Girl 5.10b © G Llewellin 2010

Me standing on the newly developed 'Cigar'. You could possibly think of other names for this feature. © G Llewellin 2010

Me onsighting Floydirect 5.12a, Downtown. © G Llewellin 2010

Molly cranking out 11b on Valhalla

Now what?

Me flashing Keilbasa 5.12c/d at the French Cattle Ranch

Campfire planning

Gareth dispatching Floydirect 5.12a

Me doing the new Gravy Train 5.12b. © G Llewellin 2010

Mega rope whiplash!

We've been having some fun here. Completely opposite style to Maple Canyon where we've just been, so I've had to dial the grades back a bit, meanwhile Sam is dialing them up. And while I thought the size 40 Mago's I bought were too small and I would have to sell them, they've turned out to be just the ticket here to tame the often non-existent footholds.

Alright fingers, show me what you got!

www.Pumpfactoryroad.com

It turned out that on July 10th I was interviewed on Climbtalk radio in Boulder, Colorado
the transcript can be found on http://pumpfactoryroad.com/blog/?m=201007
It was interesting and fun to be interviewed even though I don't feel that I am of the caliber of the other athletes that have been on the show over the past 2 years. That being said it was an honor to be invited and I did have a good time experiencing the radio talk show first hand.
Those that are interested can listen every other week, on Friday night at 11pm to Boulders own KVCU 1190am to Climb Talk (Mike Brooks and company as they interview another person who lives and breathes rock climbing).
I can say that when you are on the radio that you always want to say more, but end up saying less because of the way that folks want you to answer questions; be specific and to the point, don't go on and on, no rambling. Those are all of the finer points of talk radio and interviews in general and some folks are better at complying than others. I did my best.
Enjoy the read on pumpfactoryroad and keep climbing.

piz : )

New Route in Kings Canyon National Park

piz : )

Back in Town

The view from downtown Squamish, the Canadian Rockies are way cool when compared to the Colorado Rockies. They stay snow covered most/all of the year are rugged and difficult to get to. They are real adventures for those who enjoy it. I think the closest range is called the Tantalus (but don't quote me on that). I didn't have the time to do much when I was in town because I was squeezing my presentation in before a bigwall expedition in California three days later. I wanted to get into the backcountry but knew that a silly injury at this time would be a real bad thing.

So I enjoyed the climbing closer to home and watched the tug a way and other events that Arcteryx planned for the festival goers.

I also participated (as a model) in the climbing photography clinic. We had about 9 folks who learned some things about shooting outdoor sports and climbing. They all had a chance to jumar (ascend a rope) to practice top down photo taking. I had to climb and reclimb a wonderful 5.7 that the name escapes me in the Smoke Bluffs just in town. It was great fun seeing the participants learn how to jug and take some fabulous photos while hanging on a rope. Thanks for not beating me up too badly during the all day pose down!

A view that never gets old. All the great climbing at Squamish and its all just a few minutes hike from the side of the highway. I took this one from the middle school parking lot where I gave a slide show on climbing and new routing in Norway. We had a sold out show, saw two presenters and a couple of climbing videos that rocked!

Well, I am sure that the two people that actually read my blog gave up hope for new material this year. I am here to say that I am back online from my Canada trip and from my California trip and from my relocation to Grand Junction, Colorado.

I have some stories, photos and of course more plans for the next few months so stay tuned as I play catch up with material for you all to take in.

First off will be a summary of the Squamish Mountain Festival in Squamish, British Columbia just outside Vancouver.

piz : )